About building a "mechanical organ"

The page Contents:

About the page

About some books about building a organ

About organ with valves

About John Smith 20 notes organ.

About sounds

About links, e-mail and my address.

 Updated 2006-04-16"Links"


 

This is a page about building a "mechanical organ"
Monkey organ, draaiorgels, drehorgel or orgue de barbarie, mekanisk orgel, vevpositiv.
Pict. to the left. A portatife I built more then 10 years ago, only to learn how to build a small organ. And left a Pict. of the organ builders patron saint Cecilia.

Return


Some books about small organ building.
Dom Francois Bédos de Celles: L´Art du Facteur d´Orgues, Paris 1778. Content lots of drawings of different small organs. A classic book.
 
Herbert Juttermann: "Mechanische musik-instrumente". Verlag Erwin Bochinsky. ISBN 3-923639-71-6. A book about how differnt mechanical instrument works. VERY GOOD.
 
Karl Bormann: Heimorgelbau. Eine Anleitung zum Selbstbau von mechanischen Pfeifenorgeln und selbstspielenden Flötenverk fur das Heim. Verlag Merseburger, Berlin 1972. Here you have all you need to build different organ pipes, wind making, measurements and so on. The last chapter is about making a small 16 notes barrel organ.
ISBN 3 87537 002 3
 
 

 Johan de Vries: KISTDRAAIORGEL. A book about building a 36 keys music book organ. Contents photos and 15 drawings with measurements and scales. Dutch language. ISBN 90-73293-03-0. Published by LOAM/Huismuzik in Utrecht.

To the left: Drawing from the book of Dom Bedos "L´ART DU FACTEUR D´ORGUES"

To the right: Photo of a porta-tife from the book of Karl Borrman "HEIMORGEL-BAU"

Return


How my mechanical organ works

The main idea is a valve that opens and closes the wind from a bellow to the pipes. The valve gets his signal from a paper or cardboard, which is running over a tracker bar. The paper is punched with holes, short or long, depending of the length of the note.

The valves are very useful, not only to the pipes, but also to control drums, bells etc.

 


The valve

Briefly: The valve is closed, no hole in the paper, the pressure is equal in both upper and lower chamber. If there is a hole in the paper the pressure in the upper chamber will decrease rapidly and therefore the pressure will be much higher in the bottom chamber and the valve will open and let the wind go through the valve into the pipe.


 

More about valve
I have tried different kind of valves, round bellow, (pillar box), membrane and so on. But for the moment I can't decide with is best, so I am using both kind of valves. To the membrane, I use thin, soft and airtight leather and about 0.4 mm thick. The bleeder screw and bleederhole (1.2mm) is very important, it controls the amount of air to the upper-chamber and the flow of air should always be smaller then the air trough the hole in the paper-roll. The movement, open/close is about 1-3 mm.
A good wood for small moving parts in organ is oak from old wine- or whisky-barrels. It will never cast (Dom Bedòs).
After all adjustment is done I seal the screws with a dot of red nail-varnish.

 

 
 
Round-bellow (pillar-box).
A usual valve for small organ is the round-bellow. The valve is simple but very reliable.
(m) air in from magazine, (p) air to the pipe, (b) bleederhole, (bs) bleeder-screw and (t) trackerbar with paper-roll or music-book. Some measure I use, bleederhole 1.5 mm, open/close disc is 30 mm in diameter, the discs is 8 mm thick and the height of bellow is 40 mm inkl. the discs. For the bellow I have tested plastic, rubber but the best cloth is soft, thin and airtight leather and about 0.4 mm thick.
The pneumatic function is similar to the membrane-valve.
 


From a visitor I got this useful scale:

Bass :F, A#, C

Accompaniment: D, D#, E, F, G, A, A#, C

Melody: D, D#, E, F, G, A, A#, C, D

This scale for 20 notes is used all over the world and master builder of organ Carl Frei used this scale on small organs, I have been told.


20-note standard "Trackerbar".

I got the measures from a template I have and from archives in Mechanical Music Digest. From the edge of the trackerbar/paper and hole 1 is about 9.5 mm (adjustable). Between center hole 1 and hole 20 is 73.28 mm. Center hole 1 and center hole 2, 3, 4 and so on is 3.857 mm!!!!. The hole in the trackerbar is 2.5 mm.

With this trackerbar, the scale abowe, 110 mm paper, I can use paper-rolls from Raffin, Melvyn Wright or other manufacturers of musicrolls.

If you are going to make a trackerbar from these measures, make a template first and control it against a readymade organ, just to be sure.

 


Experiments with trackerbar.

On the trackerbar (not made to a standard) I have loosely fitted a counterweight. The centre of the counterweight is about 1.5 mm in front of the centre of the hole in the trackerbar. In this position I played the paper-roll again and again without any leeks between the holes in the paper-roll. The counterweight looks a little too big but I am using an 80-gram wrapping paper for music-rolls.
PS. It is not good to mix aluminium with copper or brass because there is a risk for oxidises.

Spool-box

On the left side of the trackerbar is the paper-spool (roll) and to the right you can see the paper-drive and crankshaft. The paper-drive is connected to the crankshaft by wheels.
On both side of the trackerbar I have a roller, this is because I want the paper to go in and out over the trackerbar in the same angel, independence of the rolls are full or not.

 

 


Building pipes

ABOUT STOPPERS. In earlier drawings of "BUSKER" organ (see my link to John Smith Organ Builders Site), J.Smith used foam with closed cells around the stopper to make it airtight. But it is not so easy to find this kind of foam so I use ordinary dust-foam for windows. Using foam to make an airtight stopper, in small organ, is an easy way and very suitable for the amateur-builder.

1.Handle made of 4 mm "flowerpot-stick". 2. Wooden part of the stopper, about 2 mm smaller around then inside of the pipe and about 10 mm thick. 3. Self-adhesive dust-foam for windows 9x6 mm cut like the "drawing" and fixed to the side of the stopper. 4. Piece of thin household-plastic, cut to cover bottom and side of the stopper. 5. A piece of double adhesive tape just big enough to fix the plastic to the bottom of the stopper. And finally, wrap the plastic around the foam and press the stopper in to the pipe. Airtight, lightweight and will stay in place.


DON'T LAUGH………IT WORKS. (Photo late 1998)

My first test years ago.

I have made a full scale test set up, see the picture. On to a box, wind chest, I glued the valve boxes whit a thick paper between. The paper, because is that if I have to remove a valve box, I only have to pull a knife between and the only damage is delaminated paper. The wind chest gets is wind from my old portative-bellow and instead of pumps I use, temporarily, an old vacuum cleaner driving reverse and low voltage, about 100 volt AC.
The Music I try to punch out are simple tunes, I know very well, so its easy for me to hear if they sounds good or bad.
Still I have much work to do before the organ plays like I want it to. New bellows, double-working pumps and so on, but more about this later.
Pict. to the left is my last test set up. Now I am going to set the organ aside until I know what to do whit the organ.
Return


 

Pressurebox. Briefly

In an airtight box a perforated paperroll moves over a trackerbar with a speed of about 6-7 cm/sec. The trackerbar have a hole for each pipe. Then the box is under pressure by the bellows, the paper will bee pressed down to the trackerbar and prevent the air to the pipes. If there is a hole in the paper, the air will go to the corresponding pipe and that lovely sound is sounding.

A simple and easy method to build a small organ I think.


Some pictures from my "Busker 20 organ" building

(John S Smith 20 notes organ.)  

The layout of the front pipes.

The bellows.

Picture to the left: open lid to the pressure-box and showing the perforated paper-roll. Back and bottom, the two mitred bass pipes F and A#.

Picture to the right: The front of the ready made organ. The decor is made in decoupage technique.

And finally, here are two PINOCCHIO-dolls

I bought in Venice.

 

My *new* Senior 20 organ

"PINOCCHIO"

 

 

Return


Some sounds

Another part of organ building is learning how to make music and arrangements, I think.

Recording; Sound Forge 4.0; 48 000 Hz; 16-bit; Mono. And a new microphone; 600 ohm; 50-14000 Hz; -69 dB.

The tunes are played on my "Pinocchio-organ" and of my own cut-out. The tunes are trad., folk music or public domain.

If you know of any copyrights for any of the tunes here played, please let me know so that I can exclude the tune immediately.

Elvira1.mp3 (210 kB)
Kvaesarv.mp3 (279 kB)
Blaasen nu alla.mp3 (345 kB)
paeng.mp3 (337 kB)
La donna.mp3(386 kB)
Alpens ros.mp3 (129 kB)
An die freude.mp3 (214 kB)



And here are some good links:
John Smith Organ Builders Site (All about building Js 20 notes organ)
Anders Stigo (Organ-grinder (Raffin 20/40 organ) Sweden)
Peter Osborne (Page and photos of an "Busker 20 organ")
Melvyn Wright ( Maker of good busker organ music)
Nordic Organ Grinders and Friends
Positivspelare (in swedish)


FastCounter by bcentral

The Crank Organ Ring

Gisli Olsen, Henriksfaeltsv., S-312 93 Laholm, SWEDEN

mail to: orgelbyggare@hotmail.com

 
Return